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MonoPrice HDMI to Component & R/L Stereo Audio Converter Review @ MissingRemote
SilverStone Treasure TS07 USB 3.0 Enclosure @ Benchmark Reviews
HIS Radeon HD 6970 IceQ MIX 2GB Review @ Real World Labs
SteelSeries Sensei Pro Grade Laser Mouse @ BCCHardware
Zavio F531 Outdoor IP Camera Review @ Real World Labs
Mad Catz Cyborg R.A.T.7 Albino Gaming Mouse Review @ Real World Labs
Roku 2 XS Media Player Review @ MissingRemote
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Synology DiskStation DS411 4-Bay NAS Server Review @ Bigbruin.com
AMD Bulldozer - FX 8150 Performance Review @ Rage3D.com
AMD FX-8150 Bulldozer Processor @ Benchmark Reviews
XFX WarPAD @ LanOC Reviews
Hitachi Travelstar 7K750-750 750GB SATA II HDD Review @ Real World Labs
Asus Crosshair V Forumla Motherboard Review @ Niinjalane
Cooler Master Storm Xornet @ LanOC Reviews
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition Case @ Benchmark Reviews
Roccat Isku gaming Keyboard Rundown @ XSReviews.co.uk
Das Keyboard Model S Professional Silent @ LanOC Reviews
Samsung 470 Series 128GB SSD @ OCInside.de
Seagate Savvio 10K.5 900GB SAS HDD Review @ Real World Labs
Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Ultimate Gaming PC Case Review @ Real World Labs
Foxconn nT-A3500 Nettop Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Just thought I'd throw together a quick, helpful guide for all of the individuals having problems with RAGE - from texture pop-in to image tearing, these fixes help alleviate some of the issues.
Firstly, if you are running an ATI video card, download the new, "RAGE Performance" drivers at AMD.
If you are having massive pop-in and texture loading problems, you might not have a cache folder. Go to "C:\Users\<USERNAME>\AppData\Local" -> create a folder named...
ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Professional AMD Socket AM3+ Motherboard Review @ ocinside.de
VisionTek Ultimate Performance 1866Mhz DDR3 @ Benchmark Reviews
Roccat Isku Gaming Keyboard @ TweakPC.de
TViX Xroid A1 Smart Multimedia Player Review @ Real World Labs
Roccat Isku gaming Keyboard Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
SilverStone TS07 USB 3.0 External Drive Enclosure Review @ MissingRemote
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Classified Video Card @ Benchmark Reviews
AMD Llano A8-3800 CPU and GIGABYTE A75M-UD2H microATX Motherboard Review @ MissingRemote
Thermaltake Spacecraft VF-I Computer Case @ Benchmark Reviews
Innergie mCube Slim 95 Review @ XSReviews
Sentey Optimus GS-6000 Mid-Tower ATX Computer Case Review @ Tweaknews
Jabra FREEWAY Bluetooth In-Car Speakerphone Review @ Real World Labs
Steelseries WoW Legendary Edition MMO Mouse Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Synology DS-411 Slim Four-Bay NAS Review @ Tweaknews
Corsair Carbide 400R Computer Case @ Benchmark Reviews
Arctic Sound E461-BM Earphones @ Computing on Demand
If you're having trouble completely removing software like Cygwin, this might help out:
1) Right click on the registry key in question and select "Permissions" from the menu.
2) Click "Advanced".
3) Select the "Owner" tab.
4) In the "Change owner to" pane, highlight your user account.
5) Check "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects".
6) Click "Apply". Your user account should now show in the "Current Owner" box.
7) "OK" out of the two prompts.
8) Right-click on the registry key and "Delete" it - the key should now be removed.
LEPA W500-SA 500W Power Supply Review @ Real World Labs
EDGE Boost Pro Solid State Drive @ Benchmark Reviews
Thermaltake Armor A30 MicroATX Computer Case Review @ Bigbruin.com
SteelSeries MMO Mouse Legendary Edition @ LanOC Reviews
EVGA GTX580 Classified 3072MB Air @ LanOC Reviews
SilverStone EC01 USB 3.0 Internal 19-Pin Dual Port PCI Express Card Review @ MissingRemote
Kingston Wi-Drive Portable Wireless Storage 16GB Review @ Real World Labs
Zowie EC2 White Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Cooler Master Storm Trooper Gaming Case Review @ Ninjalane
Cooler Master Storm Trooper @ LanOC Reviews
CM Storm Trooper Computer Case Review @ Benchmark Reviews
Sapphire A75 Pure Platinum Mainboard Review @ Rage3D.com
Fractal Design Core 3000 Review @ MissingRemote
Seagate GoFlex Turbo 750GB USB 3.0 Hard Drive Review @ Bigbruin.com
Thecus N4200PRO @ Computing on Demand
Akasa Venom Voodoo CPU Cooler Review @ Real World Labs
Since its inception in 2007, "Heatpipe Direct Touch" (HDT) technology has become almost an expectation for air-based heatsinks. Previously, dissipative heatpipes were merely welded to the top of the mounting surface, serving only to help remove excess heat in the most extreme circumstances. HDT has allowed huge gains in cooling performance, by directly placing the heatpipes in contact with a processor's integrated...
IOGEAR GUWIP204 Wireless USB Sharing Station Review @ Missingremote
PowerSkin iPhone4 battery case @ HardwareBistro
Ultra Products U12-40659 Carbon X4 Fan Power Cable Mod / Fix @ Frostytech.com
NZXT Sentry Mix Fan Controller @ BCCHardware
Ozone Strike Mechanical Keyboard Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Fractal Design Array R2 Mini-ITX Chassis Review @ MissingRemote
Plextor PX-LB950SA 12X Internal Blu-Ray Disc Writer Review @ Real World Labs
Ineo I-NA320U Plus Hard Drive Docking Station Review @ Bigbruin.com
Thermaltake Armor A30 Micro ATX Gaming Case Review @ Tweaknews
In-Win BUC Midi Tower PC Case Review @ Real World Labs
Cooler Master Hyper 612 PWM CPU Cooler @ BCCHardware
Waterfield IPad2 Suede Jacket Sleeve Case Review @ PCSTATS
Sandberg X-Plosion 2.1 Speaker Set Review @ Real World Labs
Thermaltake TR2 700w Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
If you're running Thunderbird along with a master password, you might notice an occasional, but annoying problem. On launch/startup Thunderbird prompts for your master password multiple times; and, it will consistently keep asking for the password for every re-launch of the application, regardless of the extensions you are running. Thankfully, there is an incredibly quick fix for this issue:
Navigate to Tools -> Account Settings -> Server Settings -> deselect "Check for new messages at startup" (do this for each email account) -> OK
If you're still having issues with the master password prompt, a definite fix is using either the StartupMaster extension or Master Password+. StartupMaster is a simply forces Thunderbird to ask for your password before launching the main application, whereas Master Password+ is an overhaul of the entire system.
Wheel Stand Pro Review @ XtremeComputing
Mach Xtreme Technology DS Turbo 120GB SSD Review @ ocinside.de
Antec VP550P 550w PSU Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Mushkin Callisto Deluxe 60Gb SSD @ LanOC Reviews
IOGEAR GKM571R 2.4 GHz Multimedia Mini Keyboard Review @ MissingRemote.com
BDLot DVD Close Ultimate Review @ BayReviews.com
Steelseries Sensei Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Wesena E5 Ultra Low Profile HTPC Chassis Review @ MissingRemote
SteelSeries 6Gv2 Mechanical keyboard @ LanOC Reviews
MSI A75MA-G55 Llano Motherboard @ Benchmark Reviews
CORRECTION: SoundScience Halo 6 LED Bias HDTV Backlight Kit by Antec Review @ MissingRemote
Corsair Obsidian Series 800D @ LanOC Reviews
ASUS NC1 Noise-Canceling Headphones Review @ Bigbruin.com
Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro Heatsink Review @ Frostytech
One of the most dreaded, confusing errors your operating system's boot loader could ever throw at you is the infamous "a disk read error occurred. Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart". Even after multiple restarts, this frightening error repeatedly displays on your monitor. Fortunately, the solution to this issue is often incredibly simple; and, for the majority of cases, both the boot drive and its data are completely healthy (you can confirm this by plugging the drive into another computer). The error is meant to represent a communication error between your hardware (motherboard and processor) and software (BIOS and the hard drive's "master boot record").
In my experience, running "CHKDSK /R /P", "FIXBOOT", or "FIXMBR" from XP's recovery console or a "Startup repair" through the Windows Vista/7 installation disc will have no impact on the resolution of this problem. So, if you've seen those suggested elsewhere, I recommend skipping those steps. Here is a list of suggestions that you should try one at a time:
1) Unplug the data connector (SATA, IDE, or SCSI) from your drive and blow out both the cable end and the back of your drive with compressed air. Re-seat both sides of the cable when you are finished.
2) Check the data cable for physical damage - try using another cable.
3) Try a different data connection on your motherboard - the port you are using could be faulty.
4) Confirm that you are not daisy chaining any power connectors leading to your hard drive (i.e. if your drive takes a 4-pin Molex connector, make sure that connector isn't part of a fan).
5) Use a different, confirmed functioning, Molex or SATA power-connector
6) If your drive is in a drive enclosure that uses a controller (i.e., 3.5" bay to dual 2.5" bay), remove the drive from the controller and plug it directly into your motherboard.
7) If you are using an older IDE drive with an IDE cable connected to two devices, check that the jumpers on the primary and secondary drive are configured correctly. Try setting both drives to "cable select", if that doesn't work, configure your boot drive as the "master" and the secondary drive as the "slave".
8) Unplug your computer and pull your CMOS battery (if you are unable to do this, reset your BIOS to its defaults through BIOS itself). After waiting a few minutes, reconnect everything and restart the computer. If your drives were configured to run in AHCI, be sure to set this in the BIOS (this is important). This fix usually does the trick for me.
9) Worse comes to worst, you can purchase a new drive and ghost (or clone) the old hard drive's data to the new drive. You can then use your original drive as secondary storage or in another machine.
Your computer should function normally, but be sure to backup (I recommend scheduled backups using "Cobian Backup") important data to a secondary drive and check the SMART status and drive sector health using a program like "HD Tune".
Note: If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to post them here.
TRENDnet SecurView TV-IP322P Outdoor PoE IP Camera Review @ Real World Labs
Steel Series Sensei @ LanOC Reviews
Ceton InfiniTV 4 USB CableCARD Tuner Review @ MissingRemote
Antec LanBoy Air Yellow PC Case Review @ Real World Labs
Spire Gemini SP986B1-V2-2P Heatsink Review @ Frostytech.com
Sapphire Edge HD2 Mini PC Review @ Rage3D.com
Fractal Design Define Mini Micro-ATX Chassis Review @ MissingRemote
NZXT Sentry Mix Fan Controller @ Benchmark Reviews
Speedlink Snappy Smart Webcam Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Hauppauge WinTV-DCR-2650 USB Dual CableCARD Tuner Review @ MissingRemote
Zotac Geforce GTX 590 Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
Cooler Master Notepal LapAir @ LanOC Reviews
Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z Motherboard Review @ Ninjalane
Antec Solo-II Computer Case @ Benchmark Reviews
Enermax Brick 2.5 inch USB 3.0 External HDD Enclosure Review @ Real World Labs
SuperTooth Disco Bluetooth Speaker Review @ MissingRemote
Sharkoon X-tatic SP Gaming Headset Review @ XSReviews.co.uk
LEPA G700-MA 700W Modular Power Supply Review @ Real World Labs
Zalman ZM-MH200 U3 USB 3.0 Dual HDD Docking Station Review @ Real World Labs
QNAP vs DROBO @ Computing on Demand
If you're running Dirt 3 you might immediately notice one major flaw that the game presents for SSD / boot partition users that store their games on a separate, mechanical hard drive - that of the replay cache file. Upon launching the game, a file called "replay.pbf" is created that is usually 1.85~1.95 GB in size. Unfortunately, Dirt 3 doesn't delete the cache file when you exit the game. It instead keeps and constantly recreates the large file. And, it is forcibly stored on your system partition, irregardless of the game's installation directory. It's absolutely bad news, especially if you want to keep the flash memory write cycles down to a minimum on your speedy, but expensive drive. Fortunately, there is a quick workaround for users having this problem. You can download an application called "dirlinker" at this website - it allows you to quickly create what are called "symbiotic links" under Windows XP, Vista, and 7. Keeping in mind the difference of structure, usernames, drive letters, and operating system, you can generally find the cache file here:
[XP] C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\Codemasters\DiRT3\DataCache\<username>\replay
The dirlinker program should be configured thustly, wherein the top directory is the location of your "Codemasters" program data directory and the second directory field is populated with the place you want to move (or, rather link) the directory to:
After running the application you should notice all of the free space once again available on your primary system drive. If you would like to undo the "symbolic link", you merely have to go to the location of the linked folder on your system drive (where the data was before you moved it) and delete the folder with the image of a link on it. Then, you can cut/copy over the original files from the location specified in the second field.
This worked for me; I was initially confused as to why I lost so much space on an unrelated drive after installing Dirt 3 - now I know! If you have any tips of your own, or need help with anything, be sure to leave a comment.
If you're running a pretty beefy rig and Dead Island is having freezing or stuttering issues, the fix might be easier than you'd imagine. For most, the problem can be eliminated by quickly disabling animated, rotating, changing, or any other "active" desktop feature. If you're running Windows 7 and have your wallpaper rotating through pictures, you can very quickly disable this feature by right-clicking on your desktop and going into the "Personalize" dialogue.
If the above doesn't work, you can make a quick edit to Dead Island's "Video.scr" configuration file: navigate to "C:\Users\<YOURUSERNAME>\Documents\DeadIsland\out\Settings" or "C:\Program Files (x86)\Dead Island\DI\out\Settings" or "C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\Dead Island\DI\out\Settings" -> open "Video.scr" in notepad -> add the line VSync(disable) in the main body -> save the file and set it to "Read-only" (within the properties dialogue).
If you're also interested in boosting performance, here is my "Video.scr" file - just change your resolution and drop it into the file (overwriting the current settings list at the bottom of the file):
Resolution(1920,1200) Monitor(0) BPP(32) FSAA(16) TexBPP(32) TextureQuality("High") Filtering("AnisotropicTrilinear") Fullscreen() VSync() Shadows("High") ShadowMapSize(2048) SpotShadowMapSize(4096) Lightmaps() GammaFloat(1.23) MaxRefresh(60) MaterialQuality(0) FXQuality(4) FXFadeLevel(0) WaterQuality(0) GrassQuality(0) EnvQuality("FullDynamic") ShaderPath(5) PostProcess("Normal") DisplayDeviceType(0,0.000000,1.000000,1.000000,1.0 00000)
Also, if movement seems laggy, you might want to try alt-tabbing out of the game and opening the task manager via ctrl-alt-del, then right-clicking on the "deadislandgame.exe" process and setting the "priority" to "above normal". This seems to help smooth out mouse controls.
Note: If you have any questions, or need help, be sure to post here! Also, feel free to share any tips you have.